Shelterbelt Trees do not require applications of fertilizer after planting. Unlike Ornamental trees which grow under poor conditions, having to endure extensive pruning, large areas of pavement and concrete and sod cover which can use up most of the available nutrients and moisture, Shelterbelt Trees grow in cultivated soils where nutrients and moisture are more readily available. Trees have a deep and extensive root system as compared to either annual plants or farm crops. To be of use fertilizers need to be applied to where the roots will have access to them which is impractical in shelterbelt plantings. Both Phosphorus and Potassium move little in soil making surface applications ineffectual. It is important to remember that soil sampling of the surface alone will give inconclusive results. Soil samples for nutrient deficiencies should be taken from the root zone. Soil in this area is richer in nutrient than that found at the surface and supplemental fertilizers are not needed. Lastly, frequent surface application of fertilizers will encourage root growth at the surface which leads to a shallow rooted shelterbelt and one more likely to suffer during drought conditions. Trees such as Poplars and Elms have shallow roots to begin with and surface fertilizing can make it worse. Regular watering through the spring and summer will be enough to establish a healthy tree. Proper application of commercially suited fertilizers to Ornamental Trees may be recommended in some cases but the fertilizing of Shelterbelt Trees is not.

Trees and shrubs each have a unique shape or growth habit. Where possible this natural form should be maintained. Pruning may however be necessary at several times during the plants life cycle. Trees which have not been prepruned by the nursery should be top pruned at planting time to compensate for loss of roots when dug and to begin training the tree. Trees can later be pruned to develop a strong framework to withstand winds by pruning to leave a few strong limbs spaced well apart, up, down and around the trunk. To develop a shade tree with limbs coming off the trunk at a greater height than 6 to 8 feet, lower branches should be pruned off. Ideally pruning should be done over an extended period of time as the tree grows in height. If done all at once this can result in a weak, spindly tree that needs staking. When pruning all at once it is best to prune those lower branches to short stubs. These stubs will eventually be removed. The short stubs act as sap drawers, putting out leafy shoots which manufacture food and draw up water and minerals resulting in a stouter, stronger trunk. These stubbed branches must be kept pruned back and can be removed completely after permanent scaffold branches ( main crown ) have been established. Pruning for tree health includes the elimination of limbs with weak crotches that arise from the trunk at acute angles. Limbs which cross each other or compete for the same space as the tree crown should also be eliminated. Older trees can be revitalized by pruning out part of the crown which reduces the leaf area that the root system has to supply. More vigorous growth results in the remaining branches. Trees may also require limited pruning to increase air circulation benefiting the tree and the landscape below by increasing available sunlight. Lastly trees which represent a safety hazard, such as those with weak, split, or low hanging branches should be pruned. In general Deciduous (leafy) trees should be pruned when they are dormant, preferably in early Spring just before growth starts. At this time, wound healing will begin almost at once and it will be most rapid. Dormant pruning will have less effect on the growth of trees than pruning when the tree is in active growth. Exceptions to the dormant planting rule are maple, birch and willow which should be pruned when actively growing in mid-summer. When pruned earlier these trees will lose excessive amounts of sap. Pruning shouldn't be left too late in the fall either as wounds will need time to heal. When pruning trees make all cuts close to, and parallel to, the trunk or crotch of the tree.

Evergreens require little pruning. Spruce and pine are grown as single trunk trees giving them a pyramidal form. In this case the removal of entire branches will leave gaps and should only be done if the branch is dead or diseased. Pruning of these evergreens should be confined to trimming back new growth at the tips of the branches. When this pattern of pruning is practiced annually, the result can be a noticeable increase in the density of the tree.

Most Pines are best pruned in mid-June before the needles start to unfold. At this time the new growth looks like candles. When these terminal shoots are soft they may be cut back to one-half to one-third of their length. This will control the length of subsequent growth for that season. New terminal buds will form at the cut ends by the end of the growing season and growth the following year will spread out from those points.

With Spruce if it is a matter of shortening shoot growth, it can be pruned by cutting the shoot back to a lateral bud in early spring before growth starts. Pruning should be done in mid-May to early June, before new buds for next year's growth have been formed. Growth will continue on from that bud as the season progresses. Density pruning of Spruce is best carried out after the growing points have elongated. To control growth, prune half of the new growth early in the spring when the growth has extended. This will increase the density of the tree much the same way as with pines.

The treatment of tree wounds, while protecting against the invasion of water disease and insects also slow the healing process. It is recommended that dressings only be used on cuts with a diameter over six inches. Remember to use tree paint only. Do not use ordinary paints!

Wind erosion damaged an estimated 900,000 Hectares (two million acres) of agricultural soils in Alberta in the 1980's. Strong and sustained winds along with dry bare soils contributed to serious loss.

The most familiar result of wind erosion is the loss of top soil and nutrients which reduces the soil's ability to produce crops. The loss of top soil will also decrease the root zone depth and water holding capacity.

A field shelterbelt reduces the wind velocity for distances of up to 30 times the height of the shelterbelt trees. To get the maximum benefit out of your shelterbelt you should plan for site preparation, weed control, pruning and maintenance for the first years of growth. You should choose the species that are most suited to your area.

With a properly designed shelterbelt you will get benefits like: reduced heating costs, reduced snow removal, snow trapping for gardens and dugouts. You can also improve your microclimates for specialty crops such as fruit bearing plants.

Weeds in a shelterbelt can create slower growth of trees so here are a few suggestions to control those weeds:

• Use black plastic fabric and cover the row with only the tree showing out.
• The use of wood ships or bark mulches reduces the labor needed to establish your shelterbelt.

There are several benefits to planting a multi-row shelterbelt. Multi-row belts provide superior wind protection as there are more rows of trees to slow the wind. Snow is trapped between the tree lines which will be less of a hindrance for regular field work.

Multiple species planting reduces the risk of a single disease or insect killing your shelterbelt. You can plant with a great deal of diversification for example, you can plant chokecherry and other fruit bearing plants for jelly or jam, trees for attracting birds or trees that hold their fruit into the winder for birds to feed on. With multiple rows you will also provide a habitat for wildlife species to protect themselves from the elements of mother nature.

When your trees arrive it is important to plant them as soon as possible to stop the roots from drying out. Check the plants for damage or discrepancies and report any problems to Alberta Nurseries or PFRA Shelterbelt Center in Indian Head. If you are unable to plant your trees right away, keep them in a cool dark place such as a shed or root cellar and keep the roots covered and moist.

During planting to keep the roots moist, cover with burlap or a suitable material and moisten with a water jug periodically as you go along making sure the roots do not dry out at all during the day of planting. To make your effort of planting worth while, here are a few planting tips:

• Soak the roots of your bare root stock for a couple of hours to over night to allow the roots to absorb water before planting.
• Plant your trees at the same level that they were planted before. You will be able to see where the trunk changes color from light to a dark greenish brown.
• On plug stock be sure the dirt covers the whole top of the plug to stop the drying out of the plug.
• Compact the soil by hand around the roots to eliminate all of the airspace underground. This will also keep the plant straight and secure.
• Water the seedlings in after planting for the best survival.

Watch that newly planted seedlings and the surrounding soil don't dry out. You can use wood chips of a leaf mulch to stop the effects of direct sunlight and drying wind on the soil. Both will quickly draw moisture from the soil and will overstress the new seedlings. These methods will keep moisture in the soil longer and also stop the large fluctuations in soil temperature. This will give the seedlings a better chance for survival.

You will also receive the added benefit of less weed coming through the mulch of wood chips which makes for less work controlling the weed problems associated with starting new shelterbelts.

Less rototilling during dry seasons will keep the moisture levels higher in the root zone where moisture is needed. Deep rototilling will damage roots and will set back the growth of seedlings.

Damage to stems of seedlings resulting from weeding or other maintenance is one of the most common causes of failure in a newly planted seedling. This is commonly known in the industry as "Tractor Blight". Seedlings have but a few thin cellular layers of outer bark to protect the critical vascular system of the tree. The vascular layers of the tree carry water, nutrients and complex sugars manufactured during photosynthesis. When these critical vascular layers are damaged, they can no longer function to move water and nutrients throughout the plant. The most critical point for damage is directly at soil level known as the root crown of the tree. This is the Achilles Heel of the tree.

Trees can survive a small percentage of bark damage. Extensive damage will most certainly kill a seedling. Root disturbance from deep cultivation or rototilling can be very detrimental to seedling establishment. Repeated disturbance at the root zone of young seedlings can substantially delay the growth of a seedling or kill the seedling outright. Only very shallow cultivation (less than 1") is acceptable practice. The perferred method of reducing weed and water maintenance is to provide a layer of organic mulch around the tree. A mulch layer reduces weed growth and the need to cultivate directly under the tree. Organic mulch decomposition provides important micronutrients to the soil and the tree. Microorganism activity is also increased providing additional nutrients to the plants. Bark mulch, wood chips and straw can be used as mulch material to a maximum depth of 4 in. or 10 cm. Grass and leaves should be avoided, as they tend to form a solid mat reducing the penetration of water into the soil.

Deer grazing can be a frustrating problem in a new planting. You may have the misfortune of deer browsing the new growth of your trees or deer that uproot newly planted seedlings. A well-trained dog may be man's best friend in deterring deer in a new planting. Commercially developed deer repellents are also available. Commercial formulations are generally expensive and require regular reapplication to remain affective. Home remedies include regular bath soap and/or human hair suspended at intervals along your windbreak planting. Repellents work to some degree, however, if the existence of available food is low, then deer will be more likely to browse your plantings. Woven wire deer fence and electric fencing are the most effective means of protecting your trees, but also the most expensive. A woven wire deer fence should be 8 - 10 feet in height to be effective, and is a long-term, low-maintenance solution to deer problems. Electric fencing can be used but, is higher maintenance than a woven fence. Some tree plantings are generally less attractive to deer browsing. Spruce and Pine are among the least desirable food sources for deer. Paper Birch, Red Osier Dogwood, Red Elder Berry, and common Lilac rate low on the deer food menu. Once again, if the available browse is low, then deer will attempt almost any plant as a potential food source.

Diamond Willow contrary to popular belief and lore is not actually a species of willow, but rather is the result of an attack by one or more types of fungus on several susceptable species of willow.

Cankers, or diamonds, form as a result of the tree's response to the fungus. The diamonds are actually more like elongated ovals with pointed ends.

There is evidence of a similar response to fungal infection producing diamond like cankers in native Trembling Aspen stands.

The cankers seem to result from the tree growing around the site of the fungal attack. Small branches will die quickly. If the branch is larger, it may continue to grow and the "Diamond" is formed on the branch and the stem. As the tree grows, new layers of wood are produced around the affected area deepening the appearance of the diamond.

Several species of willow have been identified as having diamonds. These include Bebbs Willow and Sharp Leaf Willow, which are found most often in Alberta. There are more than 100 species of identified willows in Alberta, and more are likely to exhibit this trait.

Special thanks to Bob Gander and H J Lutz for their valuable insights into this often talked about topic.